Home / Italy / Sicily

April, 2022

Palermo

Dog lovers unite! The Palermo university school of jurisprudence has welcomed these artful hounds around the campus. Not sure who the artist is but fortunately there is no need for poop bags in here. Apparently, there seems to be no need for poop anywhere in the city…

Dog lovers unite! The Palermo university school of jurisprudence has welcomed these artful hounds around the campus. Not sure who the artist is but fortunately there is no need for poop bags in here. Apparently, there seems to be no need for poop anywhere in the city…

Brand new sculpture at the Royal Palace in Palermo. How’s that for a progressive palace! This little gem was Angelo Accardi’s “poetic guerrilla” piece which was simultaneously installed March 25 in Palermo, Milan and Venice. Inspired by Robert Indiana’s iconic LOVE and HOPE sculptures, Accardi was hoping to create a trilogy.

Brand new sculpture at the Royal Palace in Palermo. How’s that for a progressive palace! This little gem was Angelo Accardi’s “poetic guerrilla” piece which was simultaneously installed March 25 in Palermo, Milan and Venice. Inspired by Robert Indiana’s iconic LOVE and HOPE sculptures, Accardi was hoping to create a trilogy.

These blacksmiths have little hole-in-the-wall workshops, hand-making all sorts of items mass produced elsewhere. This guy makes metal olive oil jugs and slotted spoons, among other kitchen necessities.

These blacksmiths have little hole-in-the-wall workshops, hand-making all sorts of items mass produced elsewhere. This guy makes metal olive oil jugs and slotted spoons, among other kitchen necessities.

Covid-friendly laundromat…it’s outside!

Covid-friendly laundromat…it’s outside!

So, Saturday night, no dinner reservation in Palermo. We stroll past one place. Looks great. One table, sidewalk seating, heat lamp is too far away and it’s just too cold for that. Then we roam and end up at Cage. Looks good. Only table is outside. But the heat lamp is right beside the table. Adam says “any chance of us finding a table inside?” She says, let me check and comes back with “we have a private room upstairs and you can have it”. We’re in! So we climb up these “secret” stairs behind the bar…

So, Saturday night, no dinner reservation in Palermo. We stroll past one place. Looks great. One table, sidewalk seating, heat lamp is too far away and it’s just too cold for that. Then we roam and end up at Cage. Looks good. Only table is outside. But the heat lamp is right beside the table. Adam says “any chance of us finding a table inside?” She says, let me check and comes back with “we have a private room upstairs and you can have it”. We’re in! So we climb up these “secret” stairs behind the bar…

…and this is our little room…

…and this is our little room…

…overlooking the restaurant below.

…overlooking the restaurant below.

Lovely Cefalù. The sun shined, the wind blew, the rain sprinkled and the heavens opened. We had it all! Here, a stone walkway at the old marina.

Lovely Cefalù. The sun shined, the wind blew, the rain sprinkled and the heavens opened. We had it all! Here, a stone walkway at the old marina.

The medieval wash-house of Cefalù. The Cefalino River flows out of the cast iron mouths of lions and into stone washbasins complete with built in washboards. The dirty water then flows out to the sea.

The medieval wash-house of Cefalù. The Cefalino River flows out of the cast iron mouths of lions and into stone washbasins complete with built in washboards. The dirty water then flows out to the sea.

Flower installation day. First pot done!

Flower installation day. First pot done!

We hiked up La Rocca, overlooking beautiful Cefalù and its long beach.

We hiked up La Rocca, overlooking beautiful Cefalù and its long beach.

Up was easier than down with my walking poles. Eight weeks in, my broken ankle isn’t quite fixed yet…25,000 steps a day is pushing the limits. Please don’t tell my doctor

Up was easier than down with my walking poles. Eight weeks in, my broken ankle isn’t quite fixed yet…25,000 steps a day is pushing the limits. Please don’t tell my doctor

Overlooking Cefalù

Overlooking Cefalù

Our chariot for the next two weeks. How cute is this! And she’s even called Dolcevita!

Our chariot for the next two weeks. How cute is this! And she’s even called Dolcevita!

Monreale has a remarkable cathedral and you learned all about it from me three years ago. But I have to say I remain absolutely blown away by the talent of the sculptors of the day. How do they make stone look like draped fabric?

Monreale has a remarkable cathedral and you learned all about it from me three years ago. But I have to say I remain absolutely blown away by the talent of the sculptors of the day. How do they make stone look like draped fabric?

So, Italy still has siesta. How civilized. Needless to say, things shut down around 1pm and reopen around 2:30pm. So we were making our way around the spectacular cathedral in Monreale (yes, when you’re in Palermo, make the short trip), and get to the final part, which is to climb one of the two towers and have a walk across an outdoor walkway. We got to the entrance at 12:32 (who knew?) and they were closing up. Darn. So we went to leave and Adam, ever the rebel, noticed the tower‘s exit turnstile. He hopped through! Needless to say, I wasn’t so elegant with my extra appendages. But we went up the down and had gorgeous views of the town. We were then ushered out by staff as the whole cathedral was shutting down for lunch. Last out, shut down the joint!

So, Italy still has siesta. How civilized. Needless to say, things shut down around 1pm and reopen around 2:30pm. So we were making our way around the spectacular cathedral in Monreale (yes, when you’re in Palermo, make the short trip), and get to the final part, which is to climb one of the two towers and have a walk across an outdoor walkway. We got to the entrance at 12:32 (who knew?) and they were closing up. Darn. So we went to leave and Adam, ever the rebel, noticed the tower‘s exit turnstile. He hopped through! Needless to say, I wasn’t so elegant with my extra appendages. But we went up the down and had gorgeous views of the town. We were then ushered out by staff as the whole cathedral was shutting down for lunch. Last out, shut down the joint!

Thankfully Adam was there to hold up the lamppost. Erice castle (Norman) in honour of Venus built into the rocks In the background.

Thankfully Adam was there to hold up the lamppost. Erice castle (Norman) in honour of Venus built into the rocks In the background.

Narrow streets in Erice. You’d think everyone would have scooters and motorcycles to navigate up there but no, cars abound. I just can’t fathom driving in a street hardly wider than a bike!

Narrow streets in Erice. You’d think everyone would have scooters and motorcycles to navigate up there but no, cars abound. I just can’t fathom driving in a street hardly wider than a bike!

Climbing the tower of the duomo. Do you think I’ve finally grown to be tall? Nah, they were much shorter in those days…

Climbing the tower of the duomo. Do you think I’ve finally grown to be tall? Nah, they were much shorter in those days…

Yup, the bells started going when we were up there!

Yup, the bells started going when we were up there!

Glad to have been the passenger to enjoy the view along the San Vito Lo Capo coastline while Adam was navigating the crazy hairpin turns!

Glad to have been the passenger to enjoy the view along the San Vito Lo Capo coastline while Adam was navigating the crazy hairpin turns!

Segesta and the Valle dei Templi

It’s time for the Ancients…we left Palermo for our road trip across Sicily. Sicily was invasion central from the beginning. There was action even before the Greeks came in 750 BC, followed by the Romans in 200 BC, not to mention the Byzantines, Arabs and Normans after the Common Era. The “little island that could” was strategically located not only in terms of trade routes in the Mediterranean and protection from the Arabs, Carthaginians and other marauders, but also for its growing conditions. The soil here still produces amazing food (more on that another day!). We traced a bit of this history of invasions in Segesta and Agrigento where the Valley of the Temples is found. Amazing what the archeologists can piece together from fragments to create a story. And like with any science, it’s based on the best interpretation of the information available. Then new information pops up and that brings new theories.

Waiting for the show to start at the 4,000 seat theatre in Segesta.

Waiting for the show to start at the 4,000 seat theatre in Segesta.

The stage

The stage

The Temple of Segesta was built in 420 BC but never finished. It seems to have never had a roof, the Doric columns were never fluted and the tabs on the stones at the base used for lifting and placement were never removed. There’s also no evidence of any decoration and ornamentation. Why unfinished? It’s not like the Greeks ran out of money. It was likely due to the skirmishes between Segesta’s main rival at the time, Selinunte. The temples in this western part of Sicily are well-preserved largely due to the fact that the area wasn’t as prone to earthquakes as the east. The Greeks also figured out how to improve the structural integrity of the columns by assembling them in sections rather than one long carved piece of stone. The sections had divots in their centres and were joined with a wooden dowel sunk into the lead-filled divots. Inspiration for Ikea assembly? The lead and wood provided a bit of flex in the event of some ground shaking.

The Temple of Segesta was built in 420 BC but never finished. It seems to have never had a roof, the Doric columns were never fluted and the tabs on the stones at the base used for lifting and placement were never removed. There’s also no evidence of any decoration and ornamentation. Why unfinished? It’s not like the Greeks ran out of money. It was likely due to the skirmishes between Segesta’s main rival at the time, Selinunte. The temples in this western part of Sicily are well-preserved largely due to the fact that the area wasn’t as prone to earthquakes as the east. The Greeks also figured out how to improve the structural integrity of the columns by assembling them in sections rather than one long carved piece of stone. The sections had divots in their centres and were joined with a wooden dowel sunk into the lead-filled divots. Inspiration for Ikea assembly? The lead and wood provided a bit of flex in the event of some ground shaking.

A way down the road (long way in those days) is the lovely town of Agrigento which has the Valle dei Templi in its backyard. The Temple of Hera, aka Temple of Juno, was visible from our lovely hotel, as you will shortly see…

A way down the road (long way in those days) is the lovely town of Agrigento which has the Valle dei Templi in its backyard. The Temple of Hera, aka Temple of Juno, was visible from our lovely hotel, as you will shortly see…

The Temple of Concordia is remarkably well-preserved given the state of other temples at this site. Why? Because the Christians arrived and converted it into a church. Can’t mess with a church, can you? Here, a modern sculpture of the fallen Icarus fascinated these two young boys and it wasn’t the wings that intrigued them but rather the detailed frontal midsection. Their dad took a picture and each boy held onto each part of Icarus’s most redeeming (to them) feature.

The Temple of Concordia is remarkably well-preserved given the state of other temples at this site. Why? Because the Christians arrived and converted it into a church. Can’t mess with a church, can you? Here, a modern sculpture of the fallen Icarus fascinated these two young boys and it wasn’t the wings that intrigued them but rather the detailed frontal midsection. Their dad took a picture and each boy held onto each part of Icarus’s most redeeming (to them) feature.

You can clearly see the modifications to the Temple of Concordia when it was turned into a church. Although the Ancient Greek people were not allowed into the inner chamber (the cella was surrounded by another set of columns), they could absolutely see through to the statue of the deity the temple was built in honour of. When this temple was converted to a church walls were built between the columns to create a nave and two aisles and the views to the inner sanctum were blocked.

You can clearly see the modifications to the Temple of Concordia when it was turned into a church. Although the Ancient Greek people were not allowed into the inner chamber (the cella was surrounded by another set of columns), they could absolutely see through to the statue of the deity the temple was built in honour of. When this temple was converted to a church walls were built between the columns to create a nave and two aisles and the views to the inner sanctum were blocked.

These graves were built into the walls and others into the ground in the form of a network of passages with catacombs. Spaces for the dead were kept completely separate from those for the living and this area became a popular burial ground in the early CE centuries when the town of Agrigento developed and people moved out of this area. Some of these arches were quite a bit larger and were used as altars to perform the burial ceremony. You’d think the graves on the second level would be for the more important and wealthy people but, in fact, not. The lower ones were easier to access to put special items and food which the dead would need in the afterlife. I guess the upper level was the equivalent of the cheaper “nosebleed” section.

These graves were built into the walls and others into the ground in the form of a network of passages with catacombs. Spaces for the dead were kept completely separate from those for the living and this area became a popular burial ground in the early CE centuries when the town of Agrigento developed and people moved out of this area. Some of these arches were quite a bit larger and were used as altars to perform the burial ceremony. You’d think the graves on the second level would be for the more important and wealthy people but, in fact, not. The lower ones were easier to access to put special items and food which the dead would need in the afterlife. I guess the upper level was the equivalent of the cheaper “nosebleed” section.

Catacombs built into the ground. These were accessed from the surface while others were accessed from a network of tunnels underground.

Catacombs built into the ground. These were accessed from the surface while others were accessed from a network of tunnels underground.

When the Romans took over, they needed to create statues in the image of the various heads of state or important folk. They transported the marble from Tuscany to Rome where they carved the statues and then shipped them off to wherever they were to be erected. Needless to say, the Romans were efficient and given that important people and heads of state were often replaced or fell from grace, they shipped the bodies dressed in robes without heads or arms. The heads in the likeness of the important person du jour was then sculpted and placed on top. The hands would be added holding whatever was relevant to that person (perhaps a book with a particular inscription). When that person was no longer on the scene, they just needed to create a new head and arm.

When the Romans took over, they needed to create statues in the image of the various heads of state or important folk. They transported the marble from Tuscany to Rome where they carved the statues and then shipped them off to wherever they were to be erected. Needless to say, the Romans were efficient and given that important people and heads of state were often replaced or fell from grace, they shipped the bodies dressed in robes without heads or arms. The heads in the likeness of the important person du jour was then sculpted and placed on top. The hands would be added holding whatever was relevant to that person (perhaps a book with a particular inscription). When that person was no longer on the scene, they just needed to create a new head and arm.

Important people du jour

Important people du jour

Our view of the Temple of Juno from our room (we had a private little pool too!).

Our view of the Temple of Juno from our room (we had a private little pool too!).

“Skiing” on the Scala dei Turchi. Much safer than the last time I was on skis!

“Skiing” on the Scala dei Turchi. Much safer than the last time I was on skis!

The Scala dei Turchi, limestone cliffs dropping into the sea in Realmonte. Officially closed, last time we had to wade through the water to get here. This time, no wading required. I guess our timing was better and the tide was out!

The Scala dei Turchi, limestone cliffs dropping into the sea in Realmonte. Officially closed, last time we had to wade through the water to get here. This time, no wading required. I guess our timing was better and the tide was out!

Villa Romana del Casale

This is one of the finest mosaics here, with detail almost like a painting. This was made with very small marble and stone tiles 3-4mm square. A single square metre of the very fine mosaic would be made up of upwards of 3,000 tiles. Regular mosaics here would have ranged from 6mm-12mm per tile. The central figure is a cyclops. We all know a cyclops has one eye in the middle of its forehead but this fellow has three! Turns out it’s a depiction of a play and lucky for the actor, no rash surgical procedures were required; it was sufficient to use makeup for the cyclops’ special eye.

This is one of the finest mosaics here, with detail almost like a painting. This was made with very small marble and stone tiles 3-4mm square. A single square metre of the very fine mosaic would be made up of upwards of 3,000 tiles. Regular mosaics here would have ranged from 6mm-12mm per tile. The central figure is a cyclops. We all know a cyclops has one eye in the middle of its forehead but this fellow has three! Turns out it’s a depiction of a play and lucky for the actor, no rash surgical procedures were required; it was sufficient to use makeup for the cyclops’ special eye.

The villa would have had more than one owner over time and redecoration would have ensued with each change of ownership. Here you can see the “newer” mosaic depiction of women in sport laid over an older geometric patterned mosaic. The central figure on the bottom is the winner holding the victor’s palm and wearing the crown of roses. The judge on the left is ready to hand out the second prize.

The villa would have had more than one owner over time and redecoration would have ensued with each change of ownership. Here you can see the “newer” mosaic depiction of women in sport laid over an older geometric patterned mosaic. The central figure on the bottom is the winner holding the victor’s palm and wearing the crown of roses. The judge on the left is ready to hand out the second prize.

Note the centre of the fresco behind the athletes. The first record of a Peeping Tom?!

Note the centre of the fresco behind the athletes. The first record of a Peeping Tom?!

This is the basilica. Not a religious space but essentially the boardroom where the important owner would receive those coming to make their case for whatever political and business dealings were at hand.

This is the basilica. Not a religious space but essentially the boardroom where the important owner would receive those coming to make their case for whatever political and business dealings were at hand.

The owner was big into hunting, fishing and competition, and this is evident in many of the mosaics. Interestingly, in the children’s rooms, the same themes come through but with children as the protagonists. Instead of the chariots being pulled by two horses, they are pulled by a pair of ducks. A sparsor in the back supports his charioteer by sprinkling him and his animals with water to keep them cool. The fellow at the bottom right is the winner and receives the victor’s palm.

The owner was big into hunting, fishing and competition, and this is evident in many of the mosaics. Interestingly, in the children’s rooms, the same themes come through but with children as the protagonists. Instead of the chariots being pulled by two horses, they are pulled by a pair of ducks. A sparsor in the back supports his charioteer by sprinkling him and his animals with water to keep them cool. The fellow at the bottom right is the winner and receives the victor’s palm.

With all the beauty and planning inside the villa, did someone forget the toilets? Here is an outdoor latrine to accommodate five at a time.

With all the beauty and planning inside the villa, did someone forget the toilets? Here is an outdoor latrine to accommodate five at a time.

Ragusa

And now for something near and dear to our hearts: Food porn in Ragusa. You asked for it Lesley Bentley! We stayed in the most wonderful hotel and our first dinner at Ciano definitely set the bar high. Luca Gulino is a master of his craft. At 31, this chef is definitely one to watch. And such a kind and personable man. I’m sure we will be hearing more and more about him in the culinary realm. Every dish was like a present. Layers of delicious ingredients artfully wrapped around gifts of flavour.

The view from our room at Relais Antica Badia. Stunning hotel. Stay here when you come to Ragusa to eat at Ciano.

The view from our room at Relais Antica Badia. Stunning hotel. Stay here when you come to Ragusa to eat at Ciano.

Our bouches were definitely amused! “Oysters” with a lovely crunch in a killer tomato jus, a savoury macaron and honestly I don’t remember the third treasure. But all so good.

Our bouches were definitely amused! “Oysters” with a lovely crunch in a killer tomato jus, a savoury macaron and honestly I don’t remember the third treasure. But all so good.

You know it’s pretty special when even the butter is a feature. Green tea and lemon butter. Wow. As vehicles for the butter, white and yellow flour bread, tapioca and dill chip and hemp breadsticks.

You know it’s pretty special when even the butter is a feature. Green tea and lemon butter. Wow. As vehicles for the butter, white and yellow flour bread, tapioca and dill chip and hemp breadsticks.

Celeriac cooked slowly to a smooth soft center with mushrooms wrapped in a delicate layer of pickled pear. An explosion of texture and flavour.

Celeriac cooked slowly to a smooth soft center with mushrooms wrapped in a delicate layer of pickled pear. An explosion of texture and flavour.

So, about those breadsticks…

So, about those breadsticks…

Luca’s special pasta: “buttons” stuffed with Buffalo milk, topped with a red shrimp. Kaffir lime and caviar rounded out the plate before the hot broth was poured over. The salty shrimp was the perfect foil for the creamy Buffalo milk. Loved this!

Luca’s special pasta: “buttons” stuffed with Buffalo milk, topped with a red shrimp. Kaffir lime and caviar rounded out the plate before the hot broth was poured over. The salty shrimp was the perfect foil for the creamy Buffalo milk. Loved this!

I’ve never had cauliflower like this! Soft on the inside, crunchy on the outside, flavoured with saffron, green onion, miso and macadamia.

I’ve never had cauliflower like this! Soft on the inside, crunchy on the outside, flavoured with saffron, green onion, miso and macadamia.

Pork neck with pancetta, asparagus and chives topped with a dollop of vanilla sour cream. Luca artfully blends flavours across the traditionally sweet and savoury realms.

Pork neck with pancetta, asparagus and chives topped with a dollop of vanilla sour cream. Luca artfully blends flavours across the traditionally sweet and savoury realms.

Two flavours of gelato, garnished with green beans. Who knew green beans could transition to dessert. Sorry, I forget the flavours of gelato. Trust me. You want to savour this!

Two flavours of gelato, garnished with green beans. Who knew green beans could transition to dessert. Sorry, I forget the flavours of gelato. Trust me. You want to savour this!

Buttermilk gelato with celery and sweet potato garnish. Stunning.

Buttermilk gelato with celery and sweet potato garnish. Stunning.

But wait, there’s more! Mandarin gelato in its own rind, field berry macaron with a savoury filling (aargh, I need to go back and ask Luca) and a very special chocolate truffle.

But wait, there’s more! Mandarin gelato in its own rind, field berry macaron with a savoury filling (aargh, I need to go back and ask Luca) and a very special chocolate truffle.

Us with the incomparable Luca!

Us with the incomparable Luca!

Master mixologist Lorenzo’s Orange Revolution with the biggest ice cube you’ve ever seen. Delicious after an afternoon of wine tasting.

Master mixologist Lorenzo’s Orange Revolution with the biggest ice cube you’ve ever seen. Delicious after an afternoon of wine tasting.

Lorenzo preparing a blood orange and Prosecco cocktail. He’s a master!

Lorenzo preparing a blood orange and Prosecco cocktail. He’s a master!

Thanks to the massive earthquake that destroyed half of southeastern Sicily in 1693, the region has become the crown jewel of baroque architecture, more specifically the more flamboyant Sicilian Baroque. Of the eight towns that were rebuilt and are now part of the UNESCO World Heritage List, we managed to visit five as we were roaming around the area.

UNESCO’s plaque, mounted in each of the eight towns.

UNESCO’s plaque, mounted in each of the eight towns.

The bottom of the 142 steps in Caltagirone, famous for its ceramics. The riser of each step is decorated in ceramic tiles. Yes, we climbed to the top and back down, perhaps a bit slower than usual on account of my sticks. Didn’t want to take another tumble!

The bottom of the 142 steps in Caltagirone, famous for its ceramics. The riser of each step is decorated in ceramic tiles. Yes, we climbed to the top and back down, perhaps a bit slower than usual on account of my sticks. Didn’t want to take another tumble!

Painting ceramics at one of the artist studios in Caltagirone.

Painting ceramics at one of the artist studios in Caltagirone.

Typical ceramics in Caltagirone. The pinecone is a symbol of health, good luck and prosperity. Now, the male and female heads that we see all over Sicily have quite a story! In fact there are two legends. One has it that during the Arab occupation in 1100AD, a young woman of Palermo of some degree of nobility was seen tending to her balcony garden by a young Arab suitor. Needless to say they fell in love. It was quite a scandal and to save face, both were killed and beheaded. This is why the vases appear in pairs. The second legend is a little more gruesome. The young woman (not necessarily a noble one) was tending to her balcony garden when the Arab man fell in love and successfully wooed her. What she discovered once already full on into the relationship was that he was married with children and would be going home to them. In a fit of jealousy and as a means of keeping him with her forever, she cut off his head and placed it on her balcony. Her basil plant flourished in its new “planter”. Her neighbours created their own vases in the same image (out of ceramic), in an attempt to have equal success with their basil. Take your pick of legends.

Typical ceramics in Caltagirone. The pinecone is a symbol of health, good luck and prosperity. Now, the male and female heads that we see all over Sicily have quite a story! In fact there are two legends. One has it that during the Arab occupation in 1100AD, a young woman of Palermo of some degree of nobility was seen tending to her balcony garden by a young Arab suitor. Needless to say they fell in love. It was quite a scandal and to save face, both were killed and beheaded. This is why the vases appear in pairs. The second legend is a little more gruesome. The young woman (not necessarily a noble one) was tending to her balcony garden when the Arab man fell in love and successfully wooed her. What she discovered once already full on into the relationship was that he was married with children and would be going home to them. In a fit of jealousy and as a means of keeping him with her forever, she cut off his head and placed it on her balcony. Her basil plant flourished in its new “planter”. Her neighbours created their own vases in the same image (out of ceramic), in an attempt to have equal success with their basil. Take your pick of legends.

A local artist’s modern riff on the ceramic head.

A local artist’s modern riff on the ceramic head.

Another turn of the head.

Another turn of the head.

Classic moorish head on a balcony.

Classic moorish head on a balcony.

The Church of St Mary of the Stairs in Ragusa. Either they ran out of names because there are so many churches in town or they really wanted to be clear which church this was.

The Church of St Mary of the Stairs in Ragusa. Either they ran out of names because there are so many churches in town or they really wanted to be clear which church this was.

Overlooking Ragusa Ibla (the historic old centre). All these towns look like a major Lego project with houses seeming stacked on top of one another and butted up against their neighbours. After the devastating earthquake, some residents of Ragusa decided to move to higher ground and created Ragusa Superiore, while others couldn’t bear to leave. The result is two halves of the town, joined by about 300 steps.

Overlooking Ragusa Ibla (the historic old centre). All these towns look like a major Lego project with houses seeming stacked on top of one another and butted up against their neighbours. After the devastating earthquake, some residents of Ragusa decided to move to higher ground and created Ragusa Superiore, while others couldn’t bear to leave. The result is two halves of the town, joined by about 300 steps.

A door slightly ajar along one of Modica’s narrow cobbled streets is begging for a peek inside. And this is what we found. Can’t imagine what the restoration budget is but the pigeons have moved in and are quite happy with the way it is.

A door slightly ajar along one of Modica’s narrow cobbled streets is begging for a peek inside. And this is what we found. Can’t imagine what the restoration budget is but the pigeons have moved in and are quite happy with the way it is.

How’s that for Sicilian Baroque! The Duomo of San Giorgio towers over Modica.

How’s that for Sicilian Baroque! The Duomo of San Giorgio towers over Modica.

Best gelato to date. This was in Modica at a shop, aptly named.

Best gelato to date. This was in Modica at a shop, aptly named.

What? There’s a Baroque church in Scicli?!

What? There’s a Baroque church in Scicli?!

Some kind of cool flowering tree in Scicli

Some kind of cool flowering tree in Scicli

So we parked on the street in Scicli. We were just over the line marking the parking spot so I actually made Adam move the car forward a foot, just in case. Needless to say, this is Italy and when we got back to the car, another car had parked behind us! Nobody got a ticket.

So we parked on the street in Scicli. We were just over the line marking the parking spot so I actually made Adam move the car forward a foot, just in case. Needless to say, this is Italy and when we got back to the car, another car had parked behind us! Nobody got a ticket.

HFWT ladies, this is a nod to you! Back to the beautiful Marzamemi for lunch. Not quite a Giuseppe picnic but delicious nonetheless.

HFWT ladies, this is a nod to you! Back to the beautiful Marzamemi for lunch. Not quite a Giuseppe picnic but delicious nonetheless.

The bells of the campanile in Noto. Fortunately these ones didn’t start ringing while we were up there but others did and we were treated to the battle of the bells…that’s what you get when there are lots and lots of churches in a small town.

The bells of the campanile in Noto. Fortunately these ones didn’t start ringing while we were up there but others did and we were treated to the battle of the bells…that’s what you get when there are lots and lots of churches in a small town.

Atop the campanile.

Atop the campanile.

The view of the duomo in Noto

The view of the duomo in Noto

We bumped into these lovely ladies from Jacksonville five times around Sicily! First in Palermo in the opera house, then they saw us in Agrigento, then in Villa Romana del casale, then they happened to be in a restaurant we walked into for dinner in Ragusa and finally we walked past them while they were sitting in an outdoor cafe in Noto. We were in Siracusa at the same time and this time planned to meet up for a drink but it didn’t end up working out. Cindy and Yvonne. Two women travelling around Italy together in a rental car. I want to be just like them when I grow up.

We bumped into these lovely ladies from Jacksonville five times around Sicily! First in Palermo in the opera house, then they saw us in Agrigento, then in Villa Romana del casale, then they happened to be in a restaurant we walked into for dinner in Ragusa and finally we walked past them while they were sitting in an outdoor cafe in Noto. We were in Siracusa at the same time and this time planned to meet up for a drink but it didn’t end up working out. Cindy and Yvonne. Two women travelling around Italy together in a rental car. I want to be just like them when I grow up.

Sweet Siracusa

What a lovely town. There’s a definite vibe here. Lots more action in this town. It’s almost like they acknowledge they have lots of history and ruins of a time long gone by, but it doesn’t define them. Much has not been rebuilt, rather fenced off and left as found. Was it so destroyed from skirmishes and earthquakes that the archeologists couldn’t figure out the puzzle? Were the archeologists spent after figuring out Segesta, Selinunte and Agrigento? Or did they just decide they wouldn’t be defined by the rubble?

Deep fake ceramic steps.

Deep fake ceramic steps.

When you ignore Google Maps directions

When you ignore Google Maps directions

How to preserve an Ancient Greek temple. Turn it into a cathedral. Notice the columns in the exterior wall.

How to preserve an Ancient Greek temple. Turn it into a cathedral. Notice the columns in the exterior wall.

The not-so-secret library at the cathedral in Siracusa. Of course there’s a story here. After the Bourbons kicked out the Jesuits in 1763, Bishop Giovanni Battista Alagona, established the library in 1780, helping to reinvigorate Siracusa’s intellectual life. In 1795, he went book shopping in Naples and selected important books to populate the library for a whopping 90 ducats (about $18,000 today). A bargain for a library’s worth of special books!

The not-so-secret library at the cathedral in Siracusa. Of course there’s a story here. After the Bourbons kicked out the Jesuits in 1763, Bishop Giovanni Battista Alagona, established the library in 1780, helping to reinvigorate Siracusa’s intellectual life. In 1795, he went book shopping in Naples and selected important books to populate the library for a whopping 90 ducats (about $18,000 today). A bargain for a library’s worth of special books!

The original occupant of this desk could never have imagined the current occupant.

The original occupant of this desk could never have imagined the current occupant.

Peekaboo sunset

Peekaboo sunset

ResQ ship moored in Siracusa. People saving people.

ResQ ship moored in Siracusa. People saving people.

And the sun goes down within an explosive display.

And the sun goes down within an explosive display.

Oranges and lemons everywhere!

Oranges and lemons everywhere!

Thankfully we didn’t try to take the car down this street.

Thankfully we didn’t try to take the car down this street.

HFWT ladies, am I late for the wedding?

HFWT ladies, am I late for the wedding?

Luigi and his spectacular sun dried tomatoes at the Ortigia market.

Luigi and his spectacular sun dried tomatoes at the Ortigia market.

Lunch at I Fratelli Burgio. The absolute best deli on earth.

Lunch at I Fratelli Burgio. The absolute best deli on earth.

Water flow from the original aqueduct at the archeological park in Siracusa.

Water flow from the original aqueduct at the archeological park in Siracusa.

The ancient Greek theatre in Siracusa. The theatres were designed as a semicircle with spectacular nature as a backdrop. Performances were not only theatrical but also political. A bit of modern renovation and seat improvement has put the theatre back in operation for shows. A couple of grand pianos on the stage today.

The ancient Greek theatre in Siracusa. The theatres were designed as a semicircle with spectacular nature as a backdrop. Performances were not only theatrical but also political. A bit of modern renovation and seat improvement has put the theatre back in operation for shows. A couple of grand pianos on the stage today.

The Roman amphitheater 200 m and 500 years from the Greek theatre. Note the Romans’ choice of shape, oval, so people could watch from all sides. Perfect for watching gladiators, animal slayings and executions. The pit in the middle was covered and was connected to the entrance by underground passageways to move around machinery and equipment. As usual, the Romans thought of everything.

The Roman amphitheater 200 m and 500 years from the Greek theatre. Note the Romans’ choice of shape, oval, so people could watch from all sides. Perfect for watching gladiators, animal slayings and executions. The pit in the middle was covered and was connected to the entrance by underground passageways to move around machinery and equipment. As usual, the Romans thought of everything.

Terrific Taormina

Explosive Etna and terrific Taormina. We had low expectations of Taormina, assuming it would be tourist trap central. Well, it is but it has an elegance, charm and beauty that make up for it. And neighbouring Mount Etna! What a fantastic opportunity to experience an active volcano, thankfully in sleeping mode when we went up. This wraps our time in Sicily. We said goodbye to Miss D (our so very cute red Fiat 500) and are now on an overnight train to the mainland. Adam totally geeked out on how they got all the train cars onto the ferry!

Etna is leaking!

Etna is leaking!

And THIS is how to break your ankle on skis! He clearly learned from the master.

And THIS is how to break your ankle on skis! He clearly learned from the master.

Stunning day on Etna. Hardly any wind and brilliant sunshine. Etna is a very active volcano and often wreaks havoc when she blows. The last eruption was February 21. She’s quiet today, thankfully. Big ones in recent memory (1983, 1985, 2001 and 2002) caused a lot of damage in the region, with the three on the southern slope taking out the cable car and skiing facilities. I guess that’s why the cable car is so expensive…they keep having to rebuild it!

Stunning day on Etna. Hardly any wind and brilliant sunshine. Etna is a very active volcano and often wreaks havoc when she blows. The last eruption was February 21. She’s quiet today, thankfully. Big ones in recent memory (1983, 1985, 2001 and 2002) caused a lot of damage in the region, with the three on the southern slope taking out the cable car and skiing facilities. I guess that’s why the cable car is so expensive…they keep having to rebuild it!

The views over this unusual landscape are beautiful. There are now four active craters on Etna but over time, the craters move. Dead craters give way to new ones. Like water leaking in your house, I guess lava finds its way out wherever it can.

The views over this unusual landscape are beautiful. There are now four active craters on Etna but over time, the craters move. Dead craters give way to new ones. Like water leaking in your house, I guess lava finds its way out wherever it can.

Someone can nap anywhere.

Someone can nap anywhere.

Etna is covered in snow/ice that is well-insulated by all the volcanic “rain” (small rocks). The rocks are shockingly lightweight due to their porosity. The rocks at the top tend to be small as they are what “rains” out of the eruption. The bulk of the lava then flows down the mountain and hardens into the larger rock formations.

Etna is covered in snow/ice that is well-insulated by all the volcanic “rain” (small rocks). The rocks are shockingly lightweight due to their porosity. The rocks at the top tend to be small as they are what “rains” out of the eruption. The bulk of the lava then flows down the mountain and hardens into the larger rock formations.

Inukshuks, Etna style.

Inukshuks, Etna style.

Feels like the top of the world.

Feels like the top of the world.

Looks like the Sahara dunes. The red is iron oxide.

Looks like the Sahara dunes. The red is iron oxide.

Après-Etna on our balcony. Note the truffle pecorino.

Après-Etna on our balcony. Note the truffle pecorino.

The coastline around Taormina is, simply put, gorgeous. In the middle ground, extending from that little spot of beach, is Isola Bella.

The coastline around Taormina is, simply put, gorgeous. In the middle ground, extending from that little spot of beach, is Isola Bella.

Teatro Antico, the Greek theatre, then Roman Amphitheater, in Taormina. Dating from the 3rd century BC, this is the second largest theatre in Sicily (10,000 seats) after the one in Siracusa. As was typical for the Greeks, the theatre was built for musical and theatrical performances, with an open view to a stunning natural backdrop. When the Romans came along, their interests were a little more hard core and they renovated it into an amphitheatre, not fully in design (it’s not a closed round or oval shape) but certainly in function. They closed up the view to the ocean with columns and statues and revised the backstage and put gladiators and animals to the test in battle, which seemed to delight the Romans of the time more than the more highbrow Greek performances. I guess this sort of space inspired the design of and interest in today’s theatrical wrestling.

Teatro Antico, the Greek theatre, then Roman Amphitheater, in Taormina. Dating from the 3rd century BC, this is the second largest theatre in Sicily (10,000 seats) after the one in Siracusa. As was typical for the Greeks, the theatre was built for musical and theatrical performances, with an open view to a stunning natural backdrop. When the Romans came along, their interests were a little more hard core and they renovated it into an amphitheatre, not fully in design (it’s not a closed round or oval shape) but certainly in function. They closed up the view to the ocean with columns and statues and revised the backstage and put gladiators and animals to the test in battle, which seemed to delight the Romans of the time more than the more highbrow Greek performances. I guess this sort of space inspired the design of and interest in today’s theatrical wrestling.

We have our choice of seats!

We have our choice of seats!

Centre stage

Centre stage

The rocky beach that joins Isola Bella to the mainland. The tiny island was bought by British noblewoman Florence Trevelyan in 1890. She built a house here and created an exotic garden. The island stayed in private hands for 100 years and is now owned by the regional government of Sicily who have designated it a nature reserve. It also remains a popular spot for men in Speedos...

The rocky beach that joins Isola Bella to the mainland. The tiny island was bought by British noblewoman Florence Trevelyan in 1890. She built a house here and created an exotic garden. The island stayed in private hands for 100 years and is now owned by the regional government of Sicily who have designated it a nature reserve. It also remains a popular spot for men in Speedos...

Rocky shore of Isola Bella. Am I rocking the British Noblewoman look?

Rocky shore of Isola Bella. Am I rocking the British Noblewoman look?

A bit of childish humour at the beach by Isola Bella.

A bit of childish humour at the beach by Isola Bella.

Kids can make a sandbox anywhere. With regular eruptions (last one was February 21 of this year), there is always an abundance of volcanic sand roadside, on the sidewalks, everywhere.

Kids can make a sandbox anywhere. With regular eruptions (last one was February 21 of this year), there is always an abundance of volcanic sand roadside, on the sidewalks, everywhere.

Chiesa Madonna della Rocca. This tiny church was built into the rocks of the mountain overlooking Taormina in 1647. There’s a bit of a commitment to go up there…648 steps!

Chiesa Madonna della Rocca. This tiny church was built into the rocks of the mountain overlooking Taormina in 1647. There’s a bit of a commitment to go up there…648 steps!

Adam has learned how to park like an Italian. Why parallel park like everyone else when you don’t really have to? Next lesson, double parking on a busy downtown street.

Adam has learned how to park like an Italian. Why parallel park like everyone else when you don’t really have to? Next lesson, double parking on a busy downtown street.

May, 2019

Lo Zingaro

Spectacular, sunny Sicily! An amazing first day of my weekend getaway with my wonderful cousin Joanna Miller! A stunning hike through Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve from Scopello to San Vito Lo Capo. Hot day with a couple of dips in icy water (but not quite as icy as Lapland…). Capped off the day with a trip up to the medieval hilltop town of Erice for sunset and dinner. If not for dinner still going strong outside our window (it’s midnight), I’d be fast asleep…ah Italy

Roadside stop in Castellammare del Golfo on the way to Lo Zingaro.

Roadside stop in Castellammare del Golfo on the way to Lo Zingaro.

Getting our picnic lunch sorted with the friendliest fruit seller. Settled on strawberries and loquats. Then our new friend (we ended up on cheek-kissing terms) sent us up the road to his friend who makes amazing panini. I highly recommend a few bits of sardine on your cheese and tomato panini...takes the humble sandwich to a whole new level.

Getting our picnic lunch sorted with the friendliest fruit seller. Settled on strawberries and loquats. Then our new friend (we ended up on cheek-kissing terms) sent us up the road to his friend who makes amazing panini. I highly recommend a few bits of sardine on your cheese and tomato panini...takes the humble sandwich to a whole new level.

A bit of Sicily’s rugged coastline from Scopello.

A bit of Sicily’s rugged coastline from Scopello.

And we’re off! Cliffs as high as 1000m, small, relatively unknown beaches, secret caves and grottos, some 650 species of flora and a wide variety of fauna makes this a spectacular place totally worth a day’s adventure.

And we’re off! Cliffs as high as 1000m, small, relatively unknown beaches, secret caves and grottos, some 650 species of flora and a wide variety of fauna makes this a spectacular place totally worth a day’s adventure.

Sicily, Italy

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Brrr. Cold, pebbly beaches a short hike from the main path. We stopped at two but there are many more. No cars so you have to hike in...or find a captain who will take you by boat.

Brrr. Cold, pebbly beaches a short hike from the main path. We stopped at two but there are many more. No cars so you have to hike in...or find a captain who will take you by boat.

How’s that for the right toe polish?! Looks like a better match in real life.

How’s that for the right toe polish?! Looks like a better match in real life.

Not sure what this one of 650 species is...

Not sure what this one of 650 species is...

A pre-dinner walk about the medieval hill top town of Erice. Reputed to be one of the most beautiful towns in Sicily, I will make it my personal mission to check all the other beautiful towns in Sicily and compare!

A pre-dinner walk about the medieval hill top town of Erice. Reputed to be one of the most beautiful towns in Sicily, I will make it my personal mission to check all the other beautiful towns in Sicily and compare!

Breathe in. Took this guy a 3-point turn to be suitably lined up to get up this street.

Breathe in. Took this guy a 3-point turn to be suitably lined up to get up this street.

We convinced the restaurant to let us take a glass of wine out to watch the sunset!

We convinced the restaurant to let us take a glass of wine out to watch the sunset!

Good night from the province of Trapani.

Good night from the province of Trapani.

Marsala

After dodging being stranded on the island of Favignana (so windy they couldn’t guarantee the ferry would come back to Trapani that day, we elected to visit the Trapani salt pans and Marsala. Who knew the effort that goes into the production of the humble salt! Marsala was quiet on a Sunday afternoon but the Pellegrino Winery happened to be open (for a giant Baptism Party) so we managed to get a tour and Marsala tasting.

Lounging in a field of wild flowers on the way to the salt pans of Trapani.

Lounging in a field of wild flowers on the way to the salt pans of Trapani.

Some of the salt pans in the different stages of salt production at the Trapani Salt Flats. The 17th century farmhouse still produces salt the old way with windmills to turn Archimedes screws to move water between the pans and other windmills to grind the salt. It remains a family-owned business.

Some of the salt pans in the different stages of salt production at the Trapani Salt Flats. The 17th century farmhouse still produces salt the old way with windmills to turn Archimedes screws to move water between the pans and other windmills to grind the salt. It remains a family-owned business.

Grinding windmill.

Grinding windmill.

Catching some fish at the edge of the salt pans.

Catching some fish at the edge of the salt pans.

My first true Sicilian arancini. Mind-blowingly good. Black rice, pistachio crust, melting cheese and prosciutto and pistachio inside.

My first true Sicilian arancini. Mind-blowingly good. Black rice, pistachio crust, melting cheese and prosciutto and pistachio inside.

Hanging out on the rocks in Marsala.

Hanging out on the rocks in Marsala.

The Marsala coast feels weirdly like Cape Town...

The Marsala coast feels weirdly like Cape Town...

Peeking through the gate.

Peeking through the gate.

Marsala tasting at the lovely Pellegrino Winery. The British liked their fortified wine so when they landed in Marsala years ago to escape a storm, they needed to rectify the shocking lack of the powerful stuff so they created an industry to keep them in their favourite drink.

Marsala tasting at the lovely Pellegrino Winery. The British liked their fortified wine so when they landed in Marsala years ago to escape a storm, they needed to rectify the shocking lack of the powerful stuff so they created an industry to keep them in their favourite drink.

Barrels and barrels and barrels. Handy wine glass holder! A must for any party!

Barrels and barrels and barrels. Handy wine glass holder! A must for any party!

Love the winery’s riff on this famous Magritte painting.

Love the winery’s riff on this famous Magritte painting.

The winery’s old logo. Recently changed but I love this one!

The winery’s old logo. Recently changed but I love this one!

Campari spritz at Mammacuara. A little sunset in my glass while waiting for the sunset over the sea.

Campari spritz at Mammacuara. A little sunset in my glass while waiting for the sunset over the sea.

Marsala sunset.

Marsala sunset.

Sicily, Italy

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Tempio Greco di Segesta

Location, location, location! Perched on a hill in Segesta is this Doric temple built around 430 BC. Wild and overgrown with grasses and spring flowers, you can just imagine lovely nymphs making flower crowns and frolicking in nature. It’s one of the most well-preserved temples, virtually intact, except for the complete absence of a roof. Some believe the town was attacked and permanently interrupted the completion. Nearby, on top of Monte Barbaro, is a semicircular theatre. They say it seats 4,000 people. I figure those people didn’t have the same personal space issues we have nowadays!

The temple at Segesta.

The temple at Segesta.

Sicily, Italy

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Sicily, Italy

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Just can’t resist these little treasures.

Just can’t resist these little treasures.

Who needs a show to watch. What a backdrop!

Who needs a show to watch. What a backdrop!

Sicily, Italy

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The cheap seats have backs!

The cheap seats have backs!

Arrivederci Joanna Miller. Thanks for an amazing weekend!

Arrivederci Joanna Miller. Thanks for an amazing weekend!

Palermo 2019

First day in Palermo and what a fun-filled adventure! Food, culture, history here, there and everywhere!

Trust me, the ultimate coffee snob, when I say I haven’t found a bad cup of coffee yet! Bars, restaurants, cafés, corner shops: they take their coffee seriously. It’s all good!

Trust me, the ultimate coffee snob, when I say I haven’t found a bad cup of coffee yet! Bars, restaurants, cafés, corner shops: they take their coffee seriously. It’s all good!

Keeping Palermo clean: Street vacuum with the perfect branding!

Keeping Palermo clean: Street vacuum with the perfect branding!

Palermo’s Falcone Borsellino Airport is named after these important Italian anti-Mafia judges. Lifelong friends and colleagues, they were both killed by the Sicilian Mafia in 1992.

Palermo’s Falcone Borsellino Airport is named after these important Italian anti-Mafia judges. Lifelong friends and colleagues, they were both killed by the Sicilian Mafia in 1992.

Real life game of Rush Hour. In Palermo (and everywhere in Italy), parking and driving seems to know no bounds...

Real life game of Rush Hour. In Palermo (and everywhere in Italy), parking and driving seems to know no bounds...

The Pretoria Fountain was sold to Palermo’s Senate in 1574 by the original Florentine owner who needed cash to pay his debts. It caused quite a stir among the nuns whose convent faced it as the statues were naked!

The Pretoria Fountain was sold to Palermo’s Senate in 1574 by the original Florentine owner who needed cash to pay his debts. It caused quite a stir among the nuns whose convent faced it as the statues were naked!

The offended nuns went on a bit of a Lorena Bobbitt rampage to protest the indecency of the male statues. Note the reclining figure in the middle. You may wonder why the fellow on the left didn’t suffer the same fate. Notice his pointy ears: he was a devil and I don’t think the nuns dared touch him.

The offended nuns went on a bit of a Lorena Bobbitt rampage to protest the indecency of the male statues. Note the reclining figure in the middle. You may wonder why the fellow on the left didn’t suffer the same fate. Notice his pointy ears: he was a devil and I don’t think the nuns dared touch him.

The blending of styles on the exterior of The Martorana (Concattedrale Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio)

The blending of styles on the exterior of The Martorana (Concattedrale Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio)

A moment in the Mayor’s chair in Palermo’s City Hall.

A moment in the Mayor’s chair in Palermo’s City Hall.

The Mayor’s private office. Thanks to our phenomenal tour guide, Domenico, for having friends with keys in all the right places!

The Mayor’s private office. Thanks to our phenomenal tour guide, Domenico, for having friends with keys in all the right places!

The Martorana (Concattedrale Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio) in Palermo is a time lapse church. It is an incredible mix of style with Roman columns and Byzantine mosaic from its 1100s construction and a Baroque altar and frescos dating from a 1600s expansion. Marzipan was invented in this convent by the nuns who could never be seen by others (even the priests). When services were over, people would come to buy pastries and marzipan. They would place their money in a round box that could be turned to the hidden nuns who would then place the requested items in the box and spin it round to their customers.

The Martorana (Concattedrale Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio) in Palermo is a time lapse church. It is an incredible mix of style with Roman columns and Byzantine mosaic from its 1100s construction and a Baroque altar and frescos dating from a 1600s expansion. Marzipan was invented in this convent by the nuns who could never be seen by others (even the priests). When services were over, people would come to buy pastries and marzipan. They would place their money in a round box that could be turned to the hidden nuns who would then place the requested items in the box and spin it round to their customers.

The collision of time, Byzantine mosaics on the left, Baroque frescoes on the right.

The collision of time, Byzantine mosaics on the left, Baroque frescoes on the right.

Fun in the Ballarò Market. This guy is carrying half a pig on his shoulders.

Fun in the Ballarò Market. This guy is carrying half a pig on his shoulders.

Andrea with the longest zucchini you’ve ever seen.

Andrea with the longest zucchini you’ve ever seen.

Lobster raffle in the market. This guy sells tickets around the market and whoever wins the draw gets all the lobsters.

Lobster raffle in the market. This guy sells tickets around the market and whoever wins the draw gets all the lobsters.

We got to sit in the royal box at the Teatro Massimo, the third largest opera house in Europe.

We got to sit in the royal box at the Teatro Massimo, the third largest opera house in Europe.

Inside the Teatro Massimo.

Inside the Teatro Massimo.

Sicily, Italy

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Julie Claveau being brave eating a spleen sandwich, a traditional Sicilian delicacy.

Julie Claveau being brave eating a spleen sandwich, a traditional Sicilian delicacy.

Palermo’s version of San Francisco’s Lombard St.

Palermo’s version of San Francisco’s Lombard St.

The stage in the opera house.

The stage in the opera house.

The Teatro Massimo, the third largest opera house in Europe, after Paris and Vienna.

The Teatro Massimo, the third largest opera house in Europe, after Paris and Vienna.

Cefalù

Cefalù is about 45 minutes on the train from Palermo; if you’re ever in Palermo, you really should carve out a day to go. Gorgeous seaside town with a UNESCO World Heritage cathedral, ruins dating back to the 4th century BC, amazing views, fantastic food and a lovely beach…

Hike up La Rocca to the ruins of the 4th century BC Tempio di Diana and those of a Norman Castle (12C-13C). The views all the way along are breathtaking...

Hike up La Rocca to the ruins of the 4th century BC Tempio di Diana and those of a Norman Castle (12C-13C). The views all the way along are breathtaking...

On the way up La Rocca.

On the way up La Rocca.

Crenellated walls of La Rocca

Crenellated walls of La Rocca

Sicily, Italy

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Sicily, Italy

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View over Capo d’Orlando

View over Capo d’Orlando

Goats on the roof!

Goats on the roof!

These goats have the best view!

These goats have the best view!

Streetscapes in Cefalù.

Streetscapes in Cefalù.

When you run out of seating inside, you put lovely cushions on the steps outside!

When you run out of seating inside, you put lovely cushions on the steps outside!

12th century Norman cathedral commissioned by the grandson of King Roger II (trying to outdo the old man’s cathedral in Palermo). Not quite as big as the one in Palermo but the mosaics were mind-blowing. A UNESCO World Heritage site.

12th century Norman cathedral commissioned by the grandson of King Roger II (trying to outdo the old man’s cathedral in Palermo). Not quite as big as the one in Palermo but the mosaics were mind-blowing. A UNESCO World Heritage site.

Astonishing mosaics in the Cefalù cathedral that look as though they are paintings. They rival the ones in the Martorana (Concattedrale Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio) in Palermo.

Astonishing mosaics in the Cefalù cathedral that look as though they are paintings. They rival the ones in the Martorana (Concattedrale Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio) in Palermo.

Modern stained glass windows adorn the Norman cathedral. A bit more clash of time periods.

Modern stained glass windows adorn the Norman cathedral. A bit more clash of time periods.

Delicious lunch at Al Porticciolo in Cefalù (recommended by our equally amazing guide, Domenico, in Palermo). The food was phenomenal and the view!

Delicious lunch at Al Porticciolo in Cefalù (recommended by our equally amazing guide, Domenico, in Palermo). The food was phenomenal and the view!

Strolling barefoot on the beach.

Strolling barefoot on the beach.

Waiting for the sunset with an Aperol Spritz in the rooftop bar at the Hotel Ambasciatori on Via Roma in Palermo.

Waiting for the sunset with an Aperol Spritz in the rooftop bar at the Hotel Ambasciatori on Via Roma in Palermo.

Stunning view of the domes of Palermo.

Stunning view of the domes of Palermo.

A divine sky over the Santa Catarina church.

A divine sky over the Santa Catarina church.

4th century BC Tempio di Diana in Cefalù...a little out of order...

4th century BC Tempio di Diana in Cefalù...a little out of order...

Monreale

Last day in Palermo. A pious, creepy, classy and food-filled day to wrap things up in this cool city with a definite edge. No photos allowed in the creepy part of the day, a visit to the Catacombe dei Cappuccini. Originally (1599) the monastery’s place for embalmed friars, the city’s wealthy paid to have their dead embalmed and placed in the catacombs, often wearing clothes of their own choosing. Families would come to visit their loved ones and keep the bodies in presentable condition. What did we see? Tons of skeletons; babies, children, adults, men, women, monks…all in various degrees of decomposition. Quite a sight, that’s for sure.

Monreale Cathedral, another UNESCO World Heritage site, dates back to 1172. Yet another fine example of Norman architecture, this cathedral has a phenomenal collection of unbelievable mosaics. We had a lovely taxi driver (Mauro) who decided to be our personal driver; he took us places, waited for us and took us to more places.

Monreale Cathedral, another UNESCO World Heritage site, dates back to 1172. Yet another fine example of Norman architecture, this cathedral has a phenomenal collection of unbelievable mosaics. We had a lovely taxi driver (Mauro) who decided to be our personal driver; he took us places, waited for us and took us to more places.

Golden splendour! Zoom in on this stuff. It’s truly amazing.

Golden splendour! Zoom in on this stuff. It’s truly amazing.

Secret enclave?

Secret enclave?

A tiny bit of ceiling in Monreale. Zoom in on the winged creatures in the corners for a little surprise looking back at you.

A tiny bit of ceiling in Monreale. Zoom in on the winged creatures in the corners for a little surprise looking back at you.

Amazing tile work on the floors.

Amazing tile work on the floors.

Biblical stories surround the interior of the cathedral, from Noah’s Ark, to Creation, to the expulsion from the Garden of Eden and more. All beautifully done in mosaics.

Biblical stories surround the interior of the cathedral, from Noah’s Ark, to Creation, to the expulsion from the Garden of Eden and more. All beautifully done in mosaics.

Palazzo Conte Federico was built along the ancient city walls in the 12th century. Members of the family still live here (along with two cats) and Andrea Federico, the son of the current Count gives tours of his family’s home. The Count’s passions include race car driving and he has won many competitions around the world. At 80, he still races!

Palazzo Conte Federico was built along the ancient city walls in the 12th century. Members of the family still live here (along with two cats) and Andrea Federico, the son of the current Count gives tours of his family’s home. The Count’s passions include race car driving and he has won many competitions around the world. At 80, he still races!

One of the sitting rooms in this private palace.

One of the sitting rooms in this private palace.

Andrea tells us that ancient Palermo was shaped more like a peninsula with the sea on both sides. As the city grew, they filled in these two “fingers” from the sea to increase land size.

Andrea tells us that ancient Palermo was shaped more like a peninsula with the sea on both sides. As the city grew, they filled in these two “fingers” from the sea to increase land size.

The old kitchen was upstairs. Not very practical but in the old days when the sea lapped the walls of this palace, it was far too damp downstairs to have the kitchen where it logically belonged.

The old kitchen was upstairs. Not very practical but in the old days when the sea lapped the walls of this palace, it was far too damp downstairs to have the kitchen where it logically belonged.

Us with the lovely Andrea Federico. And the Count’s car peeking through.

Us with the lovely Andrea Federico. And the Count’s car peeking through.

And there was the count, sitting outside his palace reading the newspaper...

And there was the count, sitting outside his palace reading the newspaper...

Laundry everywhere in Palermo.

Laundry everywhere in Palermo.

Lots of graffiti in Palermo. Apparently graffiti is legal here and, as a result, some of the world’s best graffiti artists hail from Palermo.

Lots of graffiti in Palermo. Apparently graffiti is legal here and, as a result, some of the world’s best graffiti artists hail from Palermo.

A trip to the market inspired my newest trail mix creation. Unusual and tasty!

A trip to the market inspired my newest trail mix creation. Unusual and tasty!

What’s not to love about Sicilian food? Simple ingredients, and not too much of them, prepared with passion. We had a cooking class with Antonio at his Palermo home. Would it be rude to describe it as a food orgy? So good and so much fun! If you’re in Palermo, save an evening and go for dinner with Antonio.

What’s not to love about Sicilian food? Simple ingredients, and not too much of them, prepared with passion. We had a cooking class with Antonio at his Palermo home. Would it be rude to describe it as a food orgy? So good and so much fun! If you’re in Palermo, save an evening and go for dinner with Antonio.

Pre-spaghetti cooking ritual.

Pre-spaghetti cooking ritual.

Our sauce for the pasta.

Our sauce for the pasta.

Scala dei Turchi

Road trip! We wound our way down highways and through the countryside first to Selinunte, an Ancient Greek city from the 5th century BC, then to Scala dei Turchi, limestone “stairs” that drop into the sea.

Temple of Hera in its glory.

Temple of Hera in its glory.

The Acropolis with some visible urban planning. Neighbourhoods of half a dozen houses, streets and a few sacrificial sites sprinkled around in strategic places.

The Acropolis with some visible urban planning. Neighbourhoods of half a dozen houses, streets and a few sacrificial sites sprinkled around in strategic places.

Maidens steering clear of the sacrificial sites.

Maidens steering clear of the sacrificial sites.

Sicily, Italy

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View from the front door is pretty spectacular.

View from the front door is pretty spectacular.

After wading through the water past the do-not-enter signs, we stepped onto the smooth, warm limestone surface of the Scala dei Turchi (Turkish Steps). Named for the shape of the limestone and the frequent raids by the Moors, it is truly a natural wonder to behold.

After wading through the water past the do-not-enter signs, we stepped onto the smooth, warm limestone surface of the Scala dei Turchi (Turkish Steps). Named for the shape of the limestone and the frequent raids by the Moors, it is truly a natural wonder to behold.

Getting ready for the sunset.

Getting ready for the sunset.

Now really ready for the sunset!

Now really ready for the sunset!

Bright colours, bright women against the pale limestone.

Bright colours, bright women against the pale limestone.

Now that’s a sunset!

Now that’s a sunset!

Sicily, Italy

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And a full moon!

And a full moon!

Sicily, Italy

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Morning at Scala dei Turchi. Last night we were on the scala just around the furthest tip on the right.

Morning at Scala dei Turchi. Last night we were on the scala just around the furthest tip on the right.

Sicily, Italy

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Valle Dei Templi Agrigento

There’s something about ancient stones piled up on top of each other … Built in and around the 5th and 6th centuries BC, there’s something for everyone here: temples in honour of gods and goddesses, private homes along streets, great views, grand entrance gates and annual parties. Here’s my favourite theme party of theirs: when Hades fell in love with Demeter’s daughter Persephone and whisked her away to the underworld, Demeter was so despondent that the landscape and agriculture turned brown and died. She cut a deal with Hades to let Persephone come back spring and summer and that’s why these months are our growing season. Here’s where it gets fun. In Agrigento they had an annual three-day festival to honour Demeter (and mothers in general). Female pigs were sacrificed and their blood was collected to enrich the soil. Cakes in the shape of genitalia were baked and eaten by the women. Unclear which genitalia were the most popular… We ended the day in the lovely town of Piazza Armerina with much more “modern” buildings.

Telemons! These giant statues stand 8m high and support the entablatures or cornices of the temples. Keep in mind these statues were small in comparison to the total height of 40m.

Telemons! These giant statues stand 8m high and support the entablatures or cornices of the temples. Keep in mind these statues were small in comparison to the total height of 40m.

Temple of Hercules, the largest one in Agrigento.

Temple of Hercules, the largest one in Agrigento.

Nice view for goddesses.

Nice view for goddesses.

The Temple of Concordia. This one is the best preserved of them all in Agrigento. Interesting reason why. In the 6th century, it was converted into a Christian Basilica. An enterprising bishop managed to get rid of the evil spirits, move in, get rid of the pagan statues and dedicate the new Basilica to Peter and Paul. Complete with niches for statues of patron saints and a bell tower, who would ever know pagans had previously occupied the space?

The Temple of Concordia. This one is the best preserved of them all in Agrigento. Interesting reason why. In the 6th century, it was converted into a Christian Basilica. An enterprising bishop managed to get rid of the evil spirits, move in, get rid of the pagan statues and dedicate the new Basilica to Peter and Paul. Complete with niches for statues of patron saints and a bell tower, who would ever know pagans had previously occupied the space?

New bell tower is visible here.

New bell tower is visible here.

Temple of Dioscuri with a round, sacrificial platform in front. The central round portion of this is where the sacrificial blood is collected to feed the soil.

Temple of Dioscuri with a round, sacrificial platform in front. The central round portion of this is where the sacrificial blood is collected to feed the soil.

A little sheep pen where they are reintroducing sheep native to the area. Crazy horns on these ones!

A little sheep pen where they are reintroducing sheep native to the area. Crazy horns on these ones!

Walking around Piazza Armerina.

Walking around Piazza Armerina.

It’s unseasonably cool and wet in Sicily at the moment but it seems nobody told the dogs. Everywhere they are lying around as though they can’t bear to move in the heat.

It’s unseasonably cool and wet in Sicily at the moment but it seems nobody told the dogs. Everywhere they are lying around as though they can’t bear to move in the heat.

Such a picturesque town!

Such a picturesque town!

For a population of 22,000, there are 26 operating churches here. That’s a lot of seats and not so many bums to fill them.

For a population of 22,000, there are 26 operating churches here. That’s a lot of seats and not so many bums to fill them.

The 16th century cathedral here has lovely soft muted blues and whites that feel a little like Wedgewood.

The 16th century cathedral here has lovely soft muted blues and whites that feel a little like Wedgewood.

Simple and bright.

Simple and bright.

This young fellow was working hard at perfecting his wheelies in the square in front of the cathedral.

This young fellow was working hard at perfecting his wheelies in the square in front of the cathedral.

Future international soccer star. This girl kicks ass!

Future international soccer star. This girl kicks ass!

Castello Aragonese from the 14th century. Glad the gardener was on holidays! Love the wild flowers everywhere!

Castello Aragonese from the 14th century. Glad the gardener was on holidays! Love the wild flowers everywhere!

Guard cat.

Guard cat.

These guys were hanging around in the piazza when we arrived, solving the world’s problems, and were still there 2.5 hours later.

These guys were hanging around in the piazza when we arrived, solving the world’s problems, and were still there 2.5 hours later.

Sicilian ice cream truck.

Sicilian ice cream truck.

Piazza Armerina

After leaving Piazza Armerina, we landed in Villa Romana del Casale. Much more modern than where we’ve been so far, the Villa Romana del Casale was founded early in the 4th century (AD). It has the most impressive collection of Roman mosaics in the world. Oh, and like so many places we’ve been and will go, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Something about Sicily…

The building blocks of the town of Piazza Armerina, crowned by the cathedral.

The building blocks of the town of Piazza Armerina, crowned by the cathedral.

I had such a hard time choosing which photos of mosaics to post. They are all remarkable. Beautiful patterns adorn the floors of this villa. I love the 3D they can accomplish with bits of stone.

I had such a hard time choosing which photos of mosaics to post. They are all remarkable. Beautiful patterns adorn the floors of this villa. I love the 3D they can accomplish with bits of stone.

Many stories of daily life or imaginative fantasy are told by mosaics. Here, boats were sent around the world to collect exotic animals to bring back to Italy for display.

Many stories of daily life or imaginative fantasy are told by mosaics. Here, boats were sent around the world to collect exotic animals to bring back to Italy for display.

This was my favourite depiction. Female athletes! This set of mosaics was actually placed over some older ones, as seen in the upper left corner.

This was my favourite depiction. Female athletes! This set of mosaics was actually placed over some older ones, as seen in the upper left corner.

A hunting scene where a member of the group was injured by the boar (note the blood seeping from his leg) and his compatriots come in to save him and finish the job.

A hunting scene where a member of the group was injured by the boar (note the blood seeping from his leg) and his compatriots come in to save him and finish the job.

Sports competition showing prizes on the table and sacks of money below.

Sports competition showing prizes on the table and sacks of money below.

First glimpse of Mount Aetna from afar, covered in snow.

First glimpse of Mount Aetna from afar, covered in snow.

Palazzolo Acreide

And the biking begins! First day riding from Palazzolo Acreide to Modica with a coffee stop in Giarratana (meet our new friend Andrea), and lunch in Ragusa Ilba. Spectacular day with great women, stunning scenery, lovely towns, good food and perfect coffee.

Introducing our group of 13 and our awesome guide, Davide. And the unveiling of this year’s bike kit designed for Sicily!

Introducing our group of 13 and our awesome guide, Davide. And the unveiling of this year’s bike kit designed for Sicily!

Morning route instructions.

Morning route instructions.

Roadside stop.

Roadside stop.

What a landscape. More beautiful at each turn.

What a landscape. More beautiful at each turn.

Andrea, the local excitement in Giarratana. He holds court outside the coffee shop where we stopped. Ninety-nine and going strong. He even serenaded us! His key to longevity? Who knows but maybe we should ask his sister who is 102.

Andrea, the local excitement in Giarratana. He holds court outside the coffee shop where we stopped. Ninety-nine and going strong. He even serenaded us! His key to longevity? Who knows but maybe we should ask his sister who is 102.

Bike parking in Ragusa Ilba.

Bike parking in Ragusa Ilba.

Full on recycling in the middle of nowhere.

Full on recycling in the middle of nowhere.

Cathedral in Ragusa Ilba. Eyebrows were raised when the church architect chose not to make the duomo in line with the front of the building. Purely for aesthetic reasons: coming up the road through the centre of town, people wouldn’t be able to see the duomo so he made it more visible from the front.

Cathedral in Ragusa Ilba. Eyebrows were raised when the church architect chose not to make the duomo in line with the front of the building. Purely for aesthetic reasons: coming up the road through the centre of town, people wouldn’t be able to see the duomo so he made it more visible from the front.

Granita time!

Granita time!

Mid-ride, post lunch satisfaction.

Mid-ride, post lunch satisfaction.

Should have put one of our bikes beside this baby...it’s not much bigger.

Should have put one of our bikes beside this baby...it’s not much bigger.

Welcome to Modica!

Welcome to Modica!

Gazing at the view of Modica.

Gazing at the view of Modica.

This is how you get four in the picture without doing a selfie.

This is how you get four in the picture without doing a selfie.

Pre-dinner rest on the steps of the Modica Cathedral.

Pre-dinner rest on the steps of the Modica Cathedral.

Modica

Our daily ride briefing.

Our daily ride briefing.

Come on people, pay attention!

Come on people, pay attention!

Attention granted.

Attention granted.

We didn’t earn our ride to the oldest chocolate shop (a mere 400m from our hotel), we had to work it off after the fact. Modica is famous for its chocolate, made using the original Spanish method of cold (40C) preparation. As such, the sugar doesn’t dissolve so you end up with slightly “gritty” chocolate. Super delicious and a ton of flavours, the most famous of which is that with chilli peppers.

We didn’t earn our ride to the oldest chocolate shop (a mere 400m from our hotel), we had to work it off after the fact. Modica is famous for its chocolate, made using the original Spanish method of cold (40C) preparation. As such, the sugar doesn’t dissolve so you end up with slightly “gritty” chocolate. Super delicious and a ton of flavours, the most famous of which is that with chilli peppers.

Words to live by...

Words to live by...

Something in it for the kids...a sandbox with cocoa instead of sand.

Something in it for the kids...a sandbox with cocoa instead of sand.

Houses built right into the rocks in Modica.

Houses built right into the rocks in Modica.

The “Fix-it” guy’s shop.

The “Fix-it” guy’s shop.

Kick ass Madonna comes to save Scicli from the invading Arabs on horseback. Depicted with dark hair, she looks more Sicilian. Look closely, she is actually riding right over the Arabs.

Kick ass Madonna comes to save Scicli from the invading Arabs on horseback. Depicted with dark hair, she looks more Sicilian. Look closely, she is actually riding right over the Arabs.

We certainly garner attention in our spiffy outfits in these towns.

We certainly garner attention in our spiffy outfits in these towns.

A bit of a parking altercation when this delivery guy blocks the road leading to this lady’s home.

A bit of a parking altercation when this delivery guy blocks the road leading to this lady’s home.

Cristos de Burgo, 1695. Christ is depicted wearing a skirt. The kindly older gent in the church told us to turn the picture upside down and notice that it looks like a chalice with a host floating on top. One creative soul in our group says it looks like a milk shake with a pair of straws.

Cristos de Burgo, 1695. Christ is depicted wearing a skirt. The kindly older gent in the church told us to turn the picture upside down and notice that it looks like a chalice with a host floating on top. One creative soul in our group says it looks like a milk shake with a pair of straws.

Beach stop in Pazzallo.

Beach stop in Pazzallo.

Ready to go in!

Ready to go in!

Chilly but refreshing!

Chilly but refreshing!

Our group name: Have Friends Will Travel!

Our group name: Have Friends Will Travel!

Fabulous picnic lunch prepared by our driver cum bike mechanic, Giuseppe.

Fabulous picnic lunch prepared by our driver cum bike mechanic, Giuseppe.

Picnicking

Picnicking

Davide took us to a special spot not generally part of the itinerary. A memorial to Canadian soldiers who liberated Sicily on July 10, 1943. They landed on the beach nearby.

Davide took us to a special spot not generally part of the itinerary. A memorial to Canadian soldiers who liberated Sicily on July 10, 1943. They landed on the beach nearby.

Marzamemi

Visit Marzamemi, a little fishing village on the Ionian Sea. You will love it!

Today’s route around the southernmost part of Sicily.

Today’s route around the southernmost part of Sicily.

Special treat to stop at a family-owned farm in Pachino. Right now Paolo Ottofrutta di qualità is growing cantaloupe for local consumption and for export to Europe.

Special treat to stop at a family-owned farm in Pachino. Right now Paolo Ottofrutta di qualità is growing cantaloupe for local consumption and for export to Europe.

THIS is what cantaloupe should look and taste like.

THIS is what cantaloupe should look and taste like.

In the sorting and packing warehouse.

In the sorting and packing warehouse.

The business is now run by Paolo’s son, daughter and grandson.

The business is now run by Paolo’s son, daughter and grandson.

This is the exact spot where the Canadian troops landed July 10, 1943 to liberate Sicily.

This is the exact spot where the Canadian troops landed July 10, 1943 to liberate Sicily.

The southernmost tip of Sicily where the Ionian and Mediterranean Seas meet.

The southernmost tip of Sicily where the Ionian and Mediterranean Seas meet.

Fabulous street art in the really lovely village of Marzamemi.

Fabulous street art in the really lovely village of Marzamemi.

Sicilian letter carriers!

Sicilian letter carriers!

Our lineup.

Our lineup.

Cleaned up and fresh for our cooking class and dinner at our wonderful agriturismo.

Cleaned up and fresh for our cooking class and dinner at our wonderful agriturismo.

We are making the typical Sicilian Arancina.

We are making the typical Sicilian Arancina.

A little instruction from chef.

A little instruction from chef.

A little excitement about wine.

A little excitement about wine.

Chef owner of the agriturismo. Italian women have style even when in the kitchen. Check out Consuela’s chef jacket and shoes!

Chef owner of the agriturismo. Italian women have style even when in the kitchen. Check out Consuela’s chef jacket and shoes!

Good night from Marzamemi!

Good night from Marzamemi!

Noto

Day 4 Marzamemi to Noto. This was a foodie day with a wine tasting lunch and capped off with a fabulous dinner in Noto at Manna. Noto is a beautiful Baroque town.

Day 4!

Day 4!

A visit to the Vendicari Nature Reserve. Lots of flamingos here but too far from us today to capture in a photo.

A visit to the Vendicari Nature Reserve. Lots of flamingos here but too far from us today to capture in a photo.

Lovely wine tour, tasting and lunch at the Mazzei Winery near Noto. The grounds were just stunning.

Lovely wine tour, tasting and lunch at the Mazzei Winery near Noto. The grounds were just stunning.

Individual bush vines for the grapes here. The grapes cluster near the base of the vines so that the leaves can protect them from the mid-summer 56C heat.

Individual bush vines for the grapes here. The grapes cluster near the base of the vines so that the leaves can protect them from the mid-summer 56C heat.

Not quite 56C but warm enough to take refuge under the lemon trees.

Not quite 56C but warm enough to take refuge under the lemon trees.

Barrels and barrels. Small production of great wine. We even found our favourites at tonight’s restaurant.

Barrels and barrels. Small production of great wine. We even found our favourites at tonight’s restaurant.

Wonderful lunch and tasting. Perfect after a big climb and thankfully not too far to get to our hotel in the next town after a bit of a boozy lunch.

Wonderful lunch and tasting. Perfect after a big climb and thankfully not too far to get to our hotel in the next town after a bit of a boozy lunch.

Day 4 Marzamemi to Noto. This was a foodie day with a wine tasting lunch and capped off with a fabulous dinner in Noto at Manna. Noto is a beautiful Baroque town.

Day 4 Marzamemi to Noto. This was a foodie day with a wine tasting lunch and capped off with a fabulous dinner in Noto at Manna. Noto is a beautiful Baroque town.

Our gentle steeds lined up in Noto.

Our gentle steeds lined up in Noto.

We just missed this year’s Infiorata, the annual flower festival in Noto. Each year artists the world over create displays of flowers following a theme (this year Sicilians in America). The festival and displays last the weekend and then on Monday, Children’s Day, the kids get to run through and destroy the displays.

We just missed this year’s Infiorata, the annual flower festival in Noto. Each year artists the world over create displays of flowers following a theme (this year Sicilians in America). The festival and displays last the weekend and then on Monday, Children’s Day, the kids get to run through and destroy the displays.

How’s this for a wine display?

How’s this for a wine display?

Great artistic vibe in Noto.

Great artistic vibe in Noto.

Good night from the steps of the town hall in Noto.

Good night from the steps of the town hall in Noto.

Noto Antica

Day 5. Noto out and back again, through the Riserva Naturale Cavagrande Del Cassibile, past some Necropoli and a pop in to Noto Antica. Need I mention the well deserved gelato and Prosecco?

Day 5!

Day 5!

Necropolis literally means city of the dead. Here in Noto Antica, about 200 tombs are cut into the stone as burial sites for the dead. These date from as far back as the 9th century BC.

Necropolis literally means city of the dead. Here in Noto Antica, about 200 tombs are cut into the stone as burial sites for the dead. These date from as far back as the 9th century BC.

The entrance to Noto Antica. Perched high on a hill (yes, I can attest to “high” because we rode up there), they were defensively impregnable. Their downfall was no fault of their own. They succumbed to the big earthquake of 1693 which killed 60,000 people.

The entrance to Noto Antica. Perched high on a hill (yes, I can attest to “high” because we rode up there), they were defensively impregnable. Their downfall was no fault of their own. They succumbed to the big earthquake of 1693 which killed 60,000 people.

Exploring Noto Antica.

Exploring Noto Antica.

The old walls of one of the many churches in Noto Antica. In its heyday, this was a thriving place with a whole lot of churches, monasteries and convents.

The old walls of one of the many churches in Noto Antica. In its heyday, this was a thriving place with a whole lot of churches, monasteries and convents.

Our bike kit fits in anywhere!

Our bike kit fits in anywhere!

The biggest dandelion I ever did see!

The biggest dandelion I ever did see!

The canyon of Cavagrande Del Cassibile. Unfortunately not enough time to climb down to the swimming hole at the bottom.

The canyon of Cavagrande Del Cassibile. Unfortunately not enough time to climb down to the swimming hole at the bottom.

Fabulous gelato. I recommend the lemon and dark chocolate.

Fabulous gelato. I recommend the lemon and dark chocolate.

Taking over the outdoor seating with our gelato.

Taking over the outdoor seating with our gelato.

Tasty Prosecco on our way to dinner.

Tasty Prosecco on our way to dinner.

Anche gli Angeli, a hip bar that used to be a crypt.

Anche gli Angeli, a hip bar that used to be a crypt.

Is there training on walking with hands behind backs for men of a certain age?

Is there training on walking with hands behind backs for men of a certain age?

Sicily, Italy

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Siracusa

Day 6 and our last ride from Noto to Siracusa along the coast. What an amazing trip this has been with a remarkable group of women. Thank you to Ciclofree for organizing the tour with so many special touches. If you want to cycle in Sicily, I would highly recommend Ciclofree. Ciao bellas. Can’t wait till next year!

Last day! Holding up our fearless guide, Davide. He held us up all week and now it’s his turn. And Giuseppe, our super driver who kept us safe by blocking intersections, carried our stuff and prepared our amazing picnics.

Last day! Holding up our fearless guide, Davide. He held us up all week and now it’s his turn. And Giuseppe, our super driver who kept us safe by blocking intersections, carried our stuff and prepared our amazing picnics.

Jerseys competing with graffiti.

Jerseys competing with graffiti.

Coffee granita!

Coffee granita!

Our guide, Davide, with Giuseppe (the other Giuseppe) the owner of Ciclofree, our on-the-ground tour company.

Our guide, Davide, with Giuseppe (the other Giuseppe) the owner of Ciclofree, our on-the-ground tour company.

Entering Siracusa. Lots of Moorish influence.

Entering Siracusa. Lots of Moorish influence.

The cathedral of Siracusa. The Duomo of Siracusa started as a Greek temple. Then the Arabs came in, took over the space and added their touches and finally the Spanish claimed it as their own.

The cathedral of Siracusa. The Duomo of Siracusa started as a Greek temple. Then the Arabs came in, took over the space and added their touches and finally the Spanish claimed it as their own.

Ortigia and the market. This is Burgio’s deli. This is a feast for the eyes...and the belly!

Ortigia and the market. This is Burgio’s deli. This is a feast for the eyes...and the belly!

Lunch like no other at Burgio. If ever you go to Ortigia, you MUST go for lunch here.

Lunch like no other at Burgio. If ever you go to Ortigia, you MUST go for lunch here.

Cutest cheese!

Cutest cheese!

We caught sight of a wedding in the Siracusa Cathedral. Must have been important people to book such a venue.

We caught sight of a wedding in the Siracusa Cathedral. Must have been important people to book such a venue.

And there she goes with her dad and sweet little flower girl.

And there she goes with her dad and sweet little flower girl.

Hip little bar for pre-dinner drinks!

Hip little bar for pre-dinner drinks!

Fountain of Diana in Piazza Archimede. Archimedes was from Siracusa and is both Davide’s and Da Vinci’s idol.

Fountain of Diana in Piazza Archimede. Archimedes was from Siracusa and is both Davide’s and Da Vinci’s idol.

Pantalica

We said farewell to most of our group this morning and stayed on to hike among the Necropoli di Pantalica near Sortino. Here there are upwards of 4,000 tombs cut into the limestone gorge above the Anapo river. Dating from the 13th to the 7th century BC, these tombs would have been sealed with stones or large slabs once the dead were placed inside (with food and water for their journey into the afterlife). How they cut so many tombs on the flat rock face and how they got the bodies in and sealed them up is remarkable.

Lots of climbing up and down the rocky paths, this time on our feet! To the left is the famous bat cave, Grotta dei Pipistrelli.

Lots of climbing up and down the rocky paths, this time on our feet! To the left is the famous bat cave, Grotta dei Pipistrelli.

Andrea trying out the accommodation.

Andrea trying out the accommodation.

Sicily, Italy

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If you don’t pick the capers, they turn into this beauty!

If you don’t pick the capers, they turn into this beauty!

Inside Chiesetta del Crocifisso, one of three churches. Here we see an ancient fresco.

Inside Chiesetta del Crocifisso, one of three churches. Here we see an ancient fresco.

Ok. Now to look deeply into the adornments in the church: on the left, a cross carved into the rock; in the centre, an angel and on the right a depiction of Christ crucified.

Ok. Now to look deeply into the adornments in the church: on the left, a cross carved into the rock; in the centre, an angel and on the right a depiction of Christ crucified.

Some of the Necropoli. On the right you can see the ancient ones from the Bronze Age. The large one on the left came later: that is actually a house that a future dweller created by expanding an ancient tomb. Early home renovations.

Some of the Necropoli. On the right you can see the ancient ones from the Bronze Age. The large one on the left came later: that is actually a house that a future dweller created by expanding an ancient tomb. Early home renovations.

’Tis the season for wild flowers.

’Tis the season for wild flowers.

Catania

Last night before heading home. First impression of Catania was not great…maybe because we are staying in a bit of a dodgy area. But explore we did in our limited time and found the coolest spot! The San Berillo District has seen everything. After the famous 1693 earthquake, this neighbourhood was heading in a very noble direction with its baroque buildings. But enter Fascist buildings and destruction from the war and we are left with a haven of narrow streets, buildings in different styles and various states of disrepair. All it takes is the creativity of artists and hipsters to turn it into a super cool district oozing with charm. However, if you have no reason to be in Catania, I would skip it…San Berillo is cool, but not worth going to Catania just for that.

Sicily, Italy

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Sicily, Italy

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Sicily, Italy

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Sicily, Italy

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Sicily, Italy

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The matriarch and patriarch of the neighbourhood.

The matriarch and patriarch of the neighbourhood.

Sicily, Italy

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What a drink menu!

What a drink menu!

Sicily, Italy

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This was supposed to be a pre-dinner snack but we called it a meal.

This was supposed to be a pre-dinner snack but we called it a meal.

Sicily, Italy

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