June, 2025
Pedalling in Provence
Coming from Italy, the last week of our trip required a big shift. Not only did I have to switch from my fledgling Italian to my deep down French, we donned spandex and spent the week biking through Provence. The scenery was stunning, the hills daunting, the wine fabulous, the villages charming and the company unbeatable.
No easing in to riding on day 1! Bring on the elevation…at least it was spread over some distance. Our first home base was Vaison la Romaine.
Still looking fresh as we get started on our first day.
Vaison la Romaine is a city in two parts. Starting out as a wealthy Roman city with a theatre, baths, temples and villas, it was abandoned after the fall of the Roman Empire. The inhabitants figured without Rome’s protection, they’d be in better shape if they moved across the Ouvèze River to higher ground. This grew into the medieval hilltop village behind us, complete with all the trappings of medieval villages including a castle.
This first century Roman bridge crossing the Ouvèze River is a testament to the magic of Roman architecture. In 1992, there was a devastating flood, dumping 30cm of rain in a few hours. The Ouvèze River rose more than 10m in less than an hour! People died, buildings, cars and bridges were swept away. But this 2,000 year old bridge withstood the torrent.
It’s cherry season! Gilly just had to pull over (sudden roadside stops are so much easier on a bike!)…in all honesty, we didn’t notice the private property sign until we saw this photo.
Since 2023, French farmers protesting financial and regulatory pressures have been turning village entry signs upside down.
Despite the upside down sign, we still managed to find Mollans sur Ouvèze.
Lovely riverside café for our first coffee stop.
Rolling out of town.
Mt Ventoux! Should we...or rather, should he?
Lunch in the colourful town of Buis les Baronnies.
Bike parking!
We met this farmer roadside selling cherries, strawberries, garlic, tomatoes and some syrups from the farm that’s been in his family for 90 years. Aside from a thyme syrup he had a poppy one. He was very clear to specify that they just use the poppy petals…
Our last stop, which was welcome in this heat, was a swim in the very cold Ouvèze River.
We left Vaison la Romaine for our second day of riding. Apparently our elevation on day 1 wasn’t enough…
Goodbye Vaison la Romaine!
An unscheduled stop in the lovely hilltop village of Séguret which had its origins in the 10th century. Lots of artists’ galleries and shops here. Needless to say, the cobbles were a bit of a challenge.
The French really pay attention to their outdoor planters!
Bédoin, a classic jumping off point for Mt Ventoux. "We" decided not to do it as the temperatures were hovering around 35C.
A beer garden in Bédoin for those considering a ride up or those seeking a reward after the climb. The group surrounding us in matching navy and orange jerseys was from The Netherlands. They were a small part of a group of 500 riders raising money for MS. At the table beside us on the left, some had just summitted Mont Ventoux twice and were waiting for their friends who were on their third round.
Off to dinner in Mazan. We are staying in a château which was once the home of the Marquis de Sade.
More Fun in the French Countryside
The last three days of our bike trip and a quick twirl around Marseille on the way home marked the end of a fantastic five weeks in Italy and France. I am heading home with my mind full of language and my heart full of gratitude!
Starting in Mazan, we did a stretched out climb along the Gorge de la Nesque. Mazan was home to a notorious historical figure, the Marquis de Sade. In fact, our very beautiful hotel here was his family home. Oh, the stories those walls could tell!
Beautiful tunnels cut through the rock along the gorge.
Stunning vistas along the gorge but I dare say the protective barrier walls are a little low…
Made it to the top! Up here, we met another group of Dutch cyclists raising money. This time, 800 who were heading to Ventoux the next day, riding to raise money for ALS.
Roadside massage.
This little honey shack was partway down the gorge road. The owner had 200 hives (now down to 130 as she is retiring in a year or two) that she moves around depending on which honey she is making. Among the honey she makes is true lavender honey. True lavender grows at altitudes of 800+ metres (where we were) and has a higher-end product than lavendin which is a man-made hybrid grown lower down. Lavendin is what we think of as the classic fields of lavender we see in Provence.
Whee!
In sync…
The perfect dessert: Café Gourmand. Minis of the desserts on the menu along with an espresso.
We left Mazan, and the Marquis de Sade’s dodgy history, for the beautiful hilltop village of Gordes. Thankfully the elevation wasn’t too great, given the temperature rose to 35C.
We rode up to the medieval village of Malemort-de-Comtat, because we had to get a bit of elevation in!
And a nice downhill out of town!
The Sorgue River flows around Isle-sur-la-Sorgue after it exits its deep underground karst spring upstream. Known as the Fontaine de Vaucluse, the water rises to 300 metres in the spring and for a few weeks gushes out of a cave behind us.
A little bit of convincing was required to wash off the heat in the icy cold Sorgue River.
We all dunked in! At 12C it was a sharp contrast to the 35C air temperature and I actually found it difficult to breathe!
I stand to make $5!
Our last day was a big, lumpy loop out of Gordes…again in 35C!
Our first stop was the red town of Roussillon. Built on one of the world’s largest ochre deposits, this pigment has been used for paint since prehistoric times and gives this town its special red-hued landscape. It was market day as we rolled through so, of course, that required a bit longer of a stay!
A quick stop by the lavendin fields (too low for lavender) below Lacoste.
The Chateau de Lacoste, now owned by Pierre Cardin’s estate, was famously owned by the Marquis de Sade where the debauchery continued. The Marquis was arrested (not his first time) and thrown into prison in 1777 and in 1778, the people of Lacoste stormed the castle and vandalized it (hoping he’d never come back, I guess). More destruction came during the French Revolution and the castle sat in ruins for a few hundred years until Pierre Cardin bought the ruins and restored parts of it in 2001 for use as his summer residence and cultural venue. He had a number of artist friends who gifted him various works of art. We can see some of the sculptures here.
The Pont Julien near Lacoste was the first Roman road to connect Italy and Spain and is one of the few intact Roman bridges in Provence. Dating back to 3BC, it’s still in use! Cars were diverted in 2005 but pedestrians and cyclists still Zoom across. Amazing considering it’s built of interlocked limestone blocks without any mortar to hold them together. The two little “windows” between the three arches are flood relief holes to prevent damage during flooding. Those Roman engineers!
As we rode through Ménerbes, Peter, our amazing guide, stopped to help this woman with her garbage. She refused his help to carry it to the bin (because it would be far too difficult for him to manage the garbage and his bike) but she let him open the bin for her and toss it in.
When in Provence, a glass of Pastis!
As the lights come on, we say goodnight to Gordes.
And that’s a wrap for our bike trip in Provence. Many, many thanks to our excellent guides, Peter and Troy!
And many, many memories shared with our great friends!
We had a half day in Marseille on our way out. We couldn’t be near the ocean without dipping our toes. The water was glorious but we didn’t have bathing suits with us. Here’s Gilly balancing on a rock, doing her impersonation of Karate Kid.
A relaxing stroll along the beach turned into…
…a big trek uphill!
L’Ombrière in the Old Port of Marseille was built to commemorate Marseille’s role as European Capital of Culture in 2013. Designed by British architect Norman Foster, its function goes beyond providing shade. It’s a meeting place, event space and photo spot…Instagrammers would never miss this opportunity!
July, 2016
Precious Provence
30 degrees…35 degrees…what difference does it make in stunning Provence! And the one word absent from the vocabulary here is definitely “vitesse”! Slow down and chill…
When you wake up in the morning and look out the window at this, you know it's going to be a great day!
Tempted by so many different olives. Come find them at the market at Isle-sur-la-Sorgue!
No werewolves in sight!
Not a strategic Rapunzel-style tower...easy steps up for a suitor.
Avignon, no rain in the forecast but better safe under here than sorry!
Avignon's Tour de l'Horloge, built during the 14th century when Avignon was a papal city. The busy place needed a clock to manage daily life!
🎶 Sur le pont 🎶...we all know the words!
Unbelievable Gordes. Just the most beautiful village.
Overlooking the Gordes countryside and vineyards.
As quaint as coffee gets.
Gordes built into the rocks.
An artist who stashes his artwork in the least obvious of places in Gordes.
Lighting up the path at night
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Gordes clinging to the cliff.
Lavender fields at the Senanque Abbey near Gordes. A booming lavender and honey business for the monks here.
A living fountain in Aix-en-Provence.
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